ENERGY SAVING AND
ARE PRETTY AND
Original design by Bonnie
Like most people who live in northeastern United States, I am always looking for ways
to prevent heat loss during our long, drawn out winters.
Recently, I have begun replacing my blinds and shades with insulated window quilts.
The first one I made was for my sitting room. I made it out of pretty sage green
velvet with thermal batting sewn between the layers. The
difference in the room’s warmth was noticed almost immediately. With visions of lower heating bills dancing
in my head, I decided to cover all of my windows with quilts. My
goal is to have them all completed by the time snow flies again at the end of the year.
I don’t use a pattern for my quilts. I looked at a few but didn’t want to go through
all of the fiddling with ropes and ring placements. I have over a dozen quilts to make so keeping it simple
allows me to sew them up very fast. The final product just hangs
on a regular curtain or café rod.
I’m so excited about my quilts. When Jo Ann suggested that I write directions down so
she could share them with her readers, I was really tickled. I hope sharing this will help others in not only
keeping their home warmer but also saving on their heating costs.
Here is the process:
Measure your window’s width. The width extends to the outside edge of the frame. Add an inch
on either side to allow for the hem.
Measure the height of the window to the bottom of the frame (if you have an extended sill on
the bottom to hold plants, you will measure to the top of that sill. Add an inch at the bottom for hemming
and four inches at the top to allow a one inch hem and a three inch casing formation. (Unless the rod you are
using is larger than a standard. In this case, added the inches you need to accommodate the
Figure out how much material you will need to cover the window and double
Buy your material
Buy insulated batting. I buy Pellon Fusible Thermolam Plus at JoAnn Fabrics. (use your
measurements but don’t double it)
Cut and Prepare
Lay out your material.
Measure and mark the material using your window measurements. (don’t forget to add inches to
allow for hemming and casing)
Lay out the batting and do the same. (Same as material...add inches to allow for hemming and
Double check all measurements before cutting.
Once cut, if you have bought the fusible batting, follow the directions for ironing it to the
wrong side of one piece of your cut out material.
With right sides together, pin the edges of the quilt together all the way
Sew sides together and bottom hem.
You will have what looks like a large pillow case.
Turn the material right side out and press all hemmed edges flat.
Top stitch about ¾” around pressed edges.
I make vertical baffles to keep the batting from bunching when the quilt is laundered in the
future. To keep these seams as straight as possible, I mark all the way up the quilt using a measuring tape and
straight pins. I then take masking tape and run it straight up next to the pins. Once the masking tape is in
place for each baffle seam, the straight pins can come out. [I keep this simple. If you want to be more
creative, you might top stitch artsy patterns or run horizontal or
diagonal top stitching, etc.]
Then run the seams starting at the bottom and working upward, keeping the needle running right on
the edge of the masking tape.
Once the baffles are done, hem the top of the quilt over an inch.
Fold the hemmed top over to make the casing. Make sure the fold-over measures 3 inches all
across.(If using a wider type rod, make sure this is taken into account when measuring, buying and cutting out
Pin the casing in place and then hang the quilt on the window to make sure it is covering to the
bottom of the sill. If not, adjust the depth of the casing to give the quilt more length. Re-Pin. There is
usually lee-way to do this if you are using a standard rod.
Stitch across material to make casing. If your material is very heavy, you may want to double or
10. Finish up by
sewing a looped ribbon, a decorative tassel that has a loop or just small looped pieces of elastic on the bottom
Hang the quilt by using a café rod or plain curtain rod set-up.
Plastic-coated cup hooks can be bought in a hardware store, Wal-Mart or Target.
To allow the quilt to be opened during the day, screw two hooks into the outside edge of the
window frame at the proper height with hook openings facing up.
Lift the bottom of the quilt up and slide the loops over each hook to open during the
You can create a tighter hug to your window at night by placing a loop half-way down each side of
the quilt. Use extra cup hooks and screw them in on the outside edge of your window frame with the hooks facing
down. Locate the loops so they have to stretch down a little to slip over the hook. This will hug the quilt
closer to your window and prevent heat from squeezing out between the cracks.
I also place hooks on the bottom corners of my window frames to help hold the quilt closer to the
window when closed.